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#19065 - 02/20/17 10:01 PM Evan Thomas - Cry of the Snow Lion, New Route??, Yoga Monster: 2/18/2017
B Hendricks Offline
WI4

Registered: 12/18/10
Posts: 25

Evan Thomas - Cry of the Snow Lion, New Route??, Yoga Monster

February 18, 2017

Trip Report:

On our way to the Rehab Wall this past Saturday we (Nick Straub, Justin Neufeld and myself) saw three routes left of Moonlight that I hadn't seen formed up before. We stopped and had a look. In the end we climbed the leftmost and the rightmost lines, both of which reached the ground. The far right route turned out to be an established route called 'Cry of the Snow Lion'. The next route left did not reach the ground but sported an aesthetic pillar up higher that could be reached via a traverse in from 'Snow Lion' or drytooling directly from below on crappy rock. We didn't get on this middle route. The leftmost line offered some smears turning into a 3 meter wide shield of ice higher up. The route was capped with a symmetrical pillar about 2-3 body widths in diameter. All the routes were 25-30 meters in length and all ended mid-wall where they seeped out of the rock. A passing climber mentioned he had wanted to do this left-hand route earlier in the week but his partner had bailed. At that point he thought it was still unclimbed. By the time we arrived on Saturday it had received at least one ascent and sported an Abalakov at the top of the pillar. Not sure who climbed it or what they called it (if in fact this is a new line). In any case it was really fun climbing and super aesthetic. The warm temps made for plastic ice and great overall climbing conditions. The walk up the canyon to the Rehab Wall was plastered with more ice than I've ever seen up there; much to do.


Edited by B Hendricks (02/21/17 12:34 PM)

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#19067 - 02/21/17 12:28 PM Re: Evan Thomas - Cry of the Snow Lion, New Route??, Yoga Monster: 2/18/2017 [Re: B Hendricks]
B Hendricks Offline
WI4

Registered: 12/18/10
Posts: 25







Edited by B Hendricks (02/21/17 12:30 PM)

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#19068 - 02/21/17 01:17 PM Re: Evan Thomas - Cry of the Snow Lion, New Route??, Yoga Monster: 2/18/2017 [Re: B Hendricks]
CJaeger Offline
WI6

Registered: 01/03/09
Posts: 146
I put that V-thread in there a week or two ago week climbing with Masten and Lorian. I found it to be a little spooky and thin climbing that bottom section - it was ringing like a gong with every swing/kick so I opted not to put in any screws in the bottom 75% of the pillar. Not sure if it was a first ascent but but I saw no signs of traffic nor any pick holes. I`m pretty sure we were the first ones up it this year. Does anyone know if it has formed/been climbed in previous years? If so, I'd be happy to give it a name.






Edited by CJaeger (02/21/17 01:26 PM)

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#19074 - 02/22/17 07:35 PM Re: Evan Thomas - Cry of the Snow Lion, New Route??, Yoga Monster: 2/18/2017 [Re: CJaeger]
B Hendricks Offline
WI4

Registered: 12/18/10
Posts: 25
Nice work, what a cool piece of ice in an aesthetic setting. I didn't find any pick holes in the pillar so I'm not sure if it had any traffic in between your ascent and ours. I was surprised when I got to the bottom of the pillar and looked behind it. Though the pillar was maybe 3 body-widths wide it was certainly not that thick. It reminded me of looking at a vertical straw somebody had cut in half vertically with the outer face of the pillar (straw) being convex but the back side being concave. We treaded gently but everything seemed pretty solid, no doubt the warmer temps helped alleviate some of the stress and brittleness that would have been present in the colder temps you guys had.
Do you know anything about the middle line? I know 'Cry of the Snow Lion' was originally done as a mixed climb (no ice on the lower section). I'm sure the middle line could be done the same way in it's current state connecting dry tooling down low with the ice patches and the pillar up higher. Not sure if that line has been climbed either.


Edited by B Hendricks (02/22/17 07:41 PM)

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#19083 - 02/24/17 09:15 AM Re: Evan Thomas - Cry of the Snow Lion, New Route??, Yoga Monster: 2/18/2017 [Re: B Hendricks]
CJaeger Offline
WI6

Registered: 01/03/09
Posts: 146
Thanks Bruce! We were pretty surprised to see a neat line like that untouched in such a busy area. Pending someone else claiming the left most route, I'm tentatively naming it "Old Dog, New Tricks - WI5."

To the best of my knowledge the middle line has never come in as more than a smear. I'd would be pretty bold as a direct/mixed line - rock quality on that cliff band is marginal at best. Might be worth bringing a pin or specter for the rock, though the ice looked pretty good. A chickenshit like me would probably tackle it from the right and traverse in. As far as I know it'd be an FA, and a pretty cool one at that.



Edited by CJaeger (02/24/17 09:19 AM)
Edit Reason: Spelling, brevity

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