Avalanche Conditions

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Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#18773 - 12/16/16 10:43 AM Weeping Wall and Upper Tier Are In
Tim Taylor Offline

Registered: 12/15/16
Posts: 1
Climbed the weeping wall on Tuesday Via the left hand and then the first 60m of teardrop. Everything is in up there. The access pillar to mare in winter and Iced T looks difficult to protect and the central pillar on the lower weeping wall is very chandelier-ed.

#18849 - 12/30/16 09:30 PM Re: Weeping Wall and Upper Tier Are In [Re: Tim Taylor]
Mazi Offline

Registered: 01/02/14
Posts: 3
Climbed Left Hand Lower WW on Dec 27. Lots of ice; however, quite brittle on the P1, then subsequently better quality.Middle line looked solid, right hand's P3 looks a little bit thin.

#19119 - 03/14/17 10:23 AM Re: Weeping Wall area [Re: Tim Taylor]
Grant P Offline

WI 10

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 1026
Loc: Calgary
Sun 12-Mar-2017
Any ideas about climbing Weeping Wall were forgotten when we saw six parties already on it. There were two parties on Sniveling Gully but snow was catching falling ice on the low angle sections.

*WW left above the big ledge 3/4 height was disconnected with rock but moving right may be possible. Couple lines up the middle being climbed, and WW right being climbed.
*Whimper Wall looked in but there was no trail over there visible.
*Dead Eye Dick which I thought I'd heard was in some time ago, now has discontinuous ice. I'd say not in.
*Weeping Pillar. Didn't take a close look but it looked pretty big.
*Sniveling Direct. Looked pretty big and fat.

*Sniveling Gully. First pitch in decent shape but an open hole at the top. Second pitch was some snow plodding and a somewhat steep step of good ice. Third pitch starts as good ice but then towards the top there is some bare rock. Your choices are a steep finish straight up, definitely W4 terrain. A narrow strip of ice hugging the base of the curtain. A narrow strip of ice with rock each side. easier climbing than the base of the curtain but with this weeks expected temps it may delam and fall.

Of note was that overnight Saturday had dropped quite a bit of wet snow. Once the sun came around the whole Weeping Wall area was seeing large sloughing and lots of spindrift. Numerous class one avi from steep features and some may have been bigger. By the end of the day it had stopped and most of the exposed rock was either wet or free of snow. It would not have been a good day to climb Whimper or have been below one of the larger sloughs.


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