Avalanche Conditions

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Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#19145 - 04/02/17 11:28 PM Ghoster Coaster
Grant P Offline

WI 10

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 1041
Loc: Calgary
Sun 2-Apr-2017
Approach - met a couple folks I knew walking out. Besides an awesome chat they related they had turned back from the climb because of rockfall. While I'm not sure where they had encountered it, we had continued to recce it ourselves. So there were rocks coming down on climbers left making the bottom of the gully an unhappy place to be, however we stayed high right. This will eventually lead to a pinch point but at this point you should be past the hoodoo slopes where we observed rocks coming down. After ducking the big tree and getting past the short slabby bit, we moved left of the gully. I've observed rocks falling from the climbers right loose slopes in a different season but going high left here keeps you away from the impact zone. After that the primary danger of rockfall from loose slopes should be done. Doing the approach after a good nights freeze will help too. Around freezing when we left the car.

The route was in nice shape. First step was softish and green. Second step was good but a deep groove on the right was chandeliered and wet.
The rap station just left of the main pitch has ice getting close and the one cord has the loop frozen into the ice. A newer cord was free though.
Main pitch itself was wet mainly on the lower angled right side. The steeper left side wasn't too bad.
The fourth step was in reasonable shape, as was the final step.
All things considered, it was a good walk up the creek and the climb is worth doing.

First step

Second step

Third step (main pitch) - left side

Third step - right side is wet

Third step - upper part

Fourth step

Fifth/final step

Rap station below main pitch has cord frozen into ice.

P and S, you guys should go do this. BTW I'm even less concerned about avi having taken another look again.

#19147 - 04/03/17 12:28 PM Re: Ghoster Coaster [Re: Grant P]
Steve Jeffery Offline

Registered: 12/03/10
Posts: 9
Loc: Sylvan Lake,AB
Thanks for the bata Grant. We'll probably try to get in there yet this season. We went into King Creek after we talked to you, the ice in there is AWESOM! Blue, Fat, and dry!


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