Avalanche Conditions

Mountain Safety
Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#18871 - 01/05/17 08:32 PM King Creek
martin Offline

Registered: 11/15/07
Posts: 43
Loc: cochrane, alberta
JAN 2017

First flow on right is thin. Main flow looked good. Second flow after main is good. Scottish Gulley took medium and long screws, upper pillar is in but we didn't climb it. Ice was very brittle today so we left it alone. Trail in is boot packed. Not much snow in the usual avi areas. One other group in there today.

#19152 - 04/15/17 05:06 PM Re: King Creek [Re: martin]
Grant P Offline

WI 10

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 1026
Loc: Calgary
Sat 15-Apr-2017
Decent bootpack although icy sections for the approach.

Magic Touch didn't look very magic. Thin and didn't reach the fixed anchor.

Main Flow is big n blue. A really cool steep corner on the left side leads to a slight overhanging top out. Fun to lead, then a romp to the top.
The mixed line on the right edge had some ice but not enough to protect.
I looked for the bolted station on the rock at the top but couldn't see it. Suspect it was buried by snow and/or ice. A number of v-threads exist.
The ramp above the climb and the gully to the left both look like small slides have occurred. This is kinda rare I think to have sufficient snow and while it likely wouldn't bury you it might knock you off. Something to bear in mind however it seemed stable enough today.

The two cave flows were both looking good, big and blue, and being climbed.

The Gully flow looked like it had seen some new ice form and some water flow but it was dry today and bulked out a little.
We continued up to the seldom climbed second pitch. A slender pillar has touched down and is consolidated just enough to climb if you have good technique, a gentle touch, and are comfortable to climb high enough to place a screw above the pillars attachment point on the rock.

#19269 - 12/09/17 06:59 PM Re: King Creek [Re: martin]
Grant P Offline

WI 10

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 1026
Loc: Calgary
2017-2018 season

Sat 9-Dec-2017
Approach is not bad, couple of creek crossings. The avi gullies you have to cross have pretty minimal snow accumulation in them currently with plenty of rocks showing.

The Gully Flow had a fairly fat but narrow amount of ice most of the way. There was a mix of brittle and wet, drippy ice. The top out has a wee sting in the tail.

The Cave Flows have open water at the base. They are fattening up but getting onto them presents a challenge unless you've seen Vertical Limits.

The Main Flow is doing ok and had folks climbing it.

Magic Touch has nice ice lower but it fades out making a long scratchy traverse that my drytooling partner didn't feel so enthused about after taking a closer look.


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