Links

Avalanche Conditions
CRITICAL TO CHECK.

Mountain Safety
Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.

Gravsports.com
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

ACMG
Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

CASA
Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

TABVAR
Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#18871 - 01/05/17 08:32 PM King Creek
martin Offline
WI5

Registered: 11/15/07
Posts: 43
Loc: cochrane, alberta
First flow on right is thin. Main flow looked good. Second flow after main is good. Scottish Gulley took medium and long screws, upper pillar is in but we didn't climb it. Ice was very brittle today so we left it alone. Trail in is boot packed. Not much snow in the usual avi areas. One other group in there today.

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#19152 - 04/15/17 05:06 PM Re: King Creek [Re: martin]
Grant P Offline

WI8
*

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 995
Loc: Calgary
Sat 15-Apr-2017
Decent bootpack although icy sections for the approach.

Magic Touch didn't look very magic. Thin and didn't reach the fixed anchor.

Main Flow is big n blue. A really cool steep corner on the left side leads to a slight overhanging top out. Fun to lead, then a romp to the top.
The mixed line on the right edge had some ice but not enough to protect.
I looked for the bolted station on the rock at the top but couldn't see it. Suspect it was buried by snow and/or ice. A number of v-threads exist.
The ramp above the climb and the gully to the left both look like small slides have occurred. This is kinda rare I think to have sufficient snow and while it likely wouldn't bury you it might knock you off. Something to bear in mind however it seemed stable enough today.

The two cave flows were both looking good, big and blue, and being climbed.

The Gully flow looked like it had seen some new ice form and some water flow but it was dry today and bulked out a little.
We continued up to the seldom climbed second pitch. A slender pillar has touched down and is consolidated just enough to climb if you have good technique, a gentle touch, and are comfortable to climb high enough to place a screw above the pillars attachment point on the rock.

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