Sun 16-Apr-2016

Was going to climb Masseys today but I stopped after the first pitch. The front looked to be steep and white so I decided to lead the easier corner. First screw was in a wee cave and was about the only decent screw. Despite digging for better ice I never got bomber screws. Second attempt was so rattley I nearly pulled it straight out. I placed a few more screws on the way up but they ranged from questionable to maybe ok. I treated it as a no fall situation, well more so than usual.
Once I had a TR rope set up we ran a few laps on the steeper part and called it a day. I'd say that about summed up the climb - it's had its day. The surface ice was white and heat bleached, while the ice beneath wasn't much better with some voids. Anyone heading up there will need excavating skillz, a rack of 22cm screws or longer (22 inch maybe?), and a very healthy sphincter. If you have those then you may find that the ice takes good tool swings and climbs ok but doesn't protect well.

*Superbock - from the road the lower part looks mostly buried with avi debris.
*Cool Spring - didn't look terrible from the road but there was a dirty streak on one side and who knows from a distance? Probably not great if Masseys is a yardstick.
*Pisner - looked to have a pillar on the right but middle and left weren't really connected well. Lots of avi debris on the approach.
*Carlsberg - all there but saw a report of a party doing the lower and turning around at the upper.
*Guinness - narrowed out and thinned down a lot on the first pitch. A party on it today said the first two pitches were poor, third pitch is ok. Stout and High Test have been getting favourable reports. I suppose it's possible to use the otter slide gully to bypass the lower pitches, can anyone confirm that? First pitch was supposed to be dry on the way up around 10am but quite wet behind the ice by later. Assumptions seem to be it will be gone soon.
*Bubble Wrap Blues - completely gone.
*Silk Tassel - was there but white. Don't think I'd bother walking up for a look.