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#19143 - 04/01/17 09:21 PM Cosmik Debris (new route left of Nemesis
jwalsh Offline
WI5

Registered: 01/06/08
Posts: 42
Cosmik Debris

This is a mixed line left of Nemesis, and just right of Rhamnusia on the Stanley Headwall, which I completed last weekend with the help of Michelle Kadatz. It was my third attempt, the first was with Michelle in October 2016 and the second with Ross Suchy in March 2017. For many years, I had noticed a crack running up the rock pillar to the right of Rhamsusia, and always thought of attempting it. When it ends, an obvious (to me) foot rail trends right to some corners before arriving at the halfway ledge of Nemesis. I was really hoping it would good on trad gear but the second pitch required the addition of some bolts. I think itís a fun variation of moderate difficulty, the rock quality is mostly excellent, and I recommend it. I think it should be good to go every year as the first two pitches don't need / have ice on them. On the third attempt, having sent the fist pitch both times, I tried the first pitch of Rhamnusia which is also a superb pitch and goes to the same place, and is only slightly harder.
The route name is a reference to the incredible amount of avalanche debris on the approach, which ran way below the climb, and snapped a bunch of trees before turning the corner and continuing down valley! Wild!!!

Pitch 1: Start just right of the Rhamnusia corner, and head up low angled rock for about ten meters. The rock quality becomes excellent here as you pull a bulge to a stance, below a small roof. Climb through the small roof, pass two pitons, and continue up the finger crack to a snow ledge. Step left to the bolted anchor at the top of Rhamnusia. 35m m6-

Pitch 2: Move up and left and clip the first two bolts of Rhamnusia. Instead of continuing towards the thin ice, trend back right with a few gear placements until at an obvious hand crack about 10 meters above the belay. continue traversing right past 5 bolts across the face until a corner is gained. Follow this up on good gear to a big snow ledge. About ten more meters up and slightly left on the snow, finger cracks in the cliff wall take good nuts and cams for a belay. Be sure to use lots of long quickdraws on this pitch to manage the rope drag! m6 45m

Pitch 3: is the same as the pitch 3 of Rhamnusia. This season it is all ice and very straight forward. wi4 30m. Note: The normal bolted belay at Nemesis was buried under snow / ice, but a single bolt on the ledge for the route Aquadisiac was what we used for the belay. Back it up with either a .3 camelot and the crack beside it, or climb up and hang a long sling from the bolt above.

Pitch 4: the upper half of Nemesis 65m WI6.

Alternatively, instead of the last pitch of Nemesis, finish up either Rahmnusia or Aquadisiac, the latter not looking to be in this year.

Rack: double set of cams from .3 camelot to #2 camelot, on #3 camelot, and one yellow x4 or red c3; one set of nuts (medium sized are the most useful); ice screws for the 3rd and 4th pitches.

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#19154 - 04/16/17 10:30 PM Re: Cosmik Debris (new route left of Nemesis [Re: jwalsh]
jwalsh Offline
WI5

Registered: 01/06/08
Posts: 42
Cosmik Debris update and extension:

I posted the route prematurely as people were asking for the beta. Wasn't sure if I'd get back to it this year, but it happened today. Raph and I climbed the route to the halfway ledge, and then followed an obvious left facing corner to to some wild looking ice. The corner went at M7 and has two bolts and four fixed pitons. You also need to bring a rack of cams to #2 camelot, and screws as there is about 10-15 meters of mostly low angle ice after the daggers, that lead to a very cool ice cave / screw belay. Total pitch length is 35m, and the first 20 involve cool mixed climbing up a corner that arches left, with very good tool placements and decent gear - a bit more intimidating than hard I think. It starts halfway between the other mixed routes Rhmnusia and Aquadisiac - just looked for a fixed piton a body length up.

The final pitch is 30 m of vertical ice and finishes at the top of Nemesis; WI 5/6 depending on how it forms and whether or not it's hooked out - Felt like a 6 on the lead today but I had been out of food and water for hours. Probably easier now anyways...

Anyways, Cosmik Debris is a high quality 5 pitch route now. Every pitch is good and it's well worth doing.

Oh yeah, since the lower pillar was so dry today, it was easy to go direct on pitch two right off the belay, rather than clip the first two bolts of Rhamnusia. Previously a big snow mushroom hid the crack and features so it was easier to go around it...

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