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Avalanche Conditions
CRITICAL TO CHECK.

Mountain Safety
Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.

Gravsports.com
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

ACMG
Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

CASA
Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

TABVAR
Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#18733 - 12/02/16 07:49 PM Professor falls IN
Bruno-PIerre Offline
WI3

Registered: 11/13/14
Posts: 11
Went to take a look and finally climb it

Nice and wet

P.s. sacré bleu is in too 2 Guy climb it Nice and wet too

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#18993 - 01/29/17 09:28 PM Re: Professor falls IN [Re: Bruno-PIerre]
Grant P Offline

WI8
*

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 996
Loc: Calgary
Went up for Welcome to Canada but moved over to TPF. Copied from the W2C post.

Quote:
Our consolation prize was a trip up a very very wet The Professor Falls. Our ropes were soaked on the way up. Other than how wet, it was in good shape. Quite a bit of chandelier over decent ice making a little searching and clearing necessary on some pitches for good screws. Wear waterproof pants if you like a dry crotch.


In addition, for the approach, the road is a mix of clear and reasonably gravelled snow cover up until the split. After that to the kiosk it was easy biking but less smooth and no gravel. From the kiosk it was mostly hard packed snow with quite slippery conditions. When we went from W2C over to TPF we didn't bother going further on the bikes and collected them on the way out.

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#19157 - 04/23/17 11:01 PM Re: Professor falls IN [Re: Bruno-PIerre]
Grant P Offline

WI8
*

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 996
Loc: Calgary
Sun 23-Apr-2017 St.Georges Day
Still chasing frozen waterfalls? Hurry up for a trip up TPF. Heard it was in good shape 2 or 3 days ago, dry and blue. If that's the case then it deteriorated a little. First pitch was the worst though. There was a tube down the middle with water running. By the end of the day it seemed to be more open and splashing down the climb more. I imagine it'll start to make a mess of the first pitch. The left side was also a little wet, but the right side wasn't too bad. Soft swings and reasonable climbing although getting pro meant some digging.

As you go higher on the climb, conditions seemed to improve with the last pitch being in nice condition. A party ahead of us was on the right side which was steep and somewhat sustained with fairly featured ice. While they were on the right side we went up the left. Not as sustained, less vertical, and good climbing.

There is huge avi debris along the climb. The big one reached all the way to the base and about three or four bolted anchors are buried on the upper climb. People have utilized cord on trees but some of the raps are better done with two 60m ropes. Although most of the climb was still reasonably dry, the snow is wet and some wet spots on the ice exist. First pitch was nice to have waterproof layers but the rest was not bad. Ropes were definitely soggy by the time we left.

Approach was clear road from the gate to the Y and ice/snow covered much of the road beyond the tight turn. Beyond the kiosk had a mix of dry trail, soft/wet trail, icy trail.

How long it stays in reasonable shape is really going to depend on those overnight freezes. Without good freezes or with rain then the climb might be in much poorer shape by next weekend. With favourable conditions it'll last a little longer, so go find that dragon soon.

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