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#19162 - 06/26/17 08:59 PM Slabs of fading time
Helmut Offline
WI6

Registered: 03/23/08
Posts: 137
Probable first ascent today? Let me kmow if otherwise.

Slabs of Fading Time 5.8
Old fort peak
Robb schnell, alexis jones, june 26/17
14.5 hrs
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=alo7A0NLmxU

Seems this peak has only been climbed a handful of times. Our 3 rap anchors were sufficient, but could stand to be reinforced.

Gear
Purple c3-3 cammaot
Nuts
Blades, arrows, angles
Poles+rock shoes
Two 60m ropes for all 3 raps

Approach
Up jura creek. Upon reaching the drainage south of old fort pk, start angling up left to treed bay at base of slabs. 2gullies descend out of the slabs. The first one reached (right) would lead directly into the upper corner system, however the scrambing didnt look to be as good as the way we went. Go farther left to next gully which has a small tree in the center of its initial slab. (indicated in pic)

Climb
Get into gully. Scramble up right into corner. Ascend corner then step left over the top of the gully. Continue scrambling up corner slabs for hundreds of feet.

Before corner arches around into overhangs, step left on to a higher slab, and continue up for a few hundred more ft. If you were to continue straight up here, youd reach the morowmount col, (this may have been collier's approach?) Well below summit block, start angling right across slabs towards right hand base of summit block. 2 pin anchor to rap into main corner. Climb corner in 2-3pitches 5.4. Great frictiony rock, so so anchors.

Final pitch is up south ridge. It's gnarly bad. If u dont think u can climb this pitch, dont do this route. Its an ugly pitch. 5.8 on crap rock. Good gear through crux section. It's not about which holds are loose, but how much weight can they bear? And for how long?

Descent.
Scramble down north ridge. When cliffed out rap west off nut/pin anchor to another 2 pin rap anchor. 2nd rap go the full 60 then sceamble over to north ridge. Scramble down north ridge, then down slabs and terrible scree back to jura.


Edited by Helmut (06/26/17 09:08 PM)

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#19163 - 06/26/17 09:19 PM Re: Slabs of fading time [Re: Helmut]
Helmut Offline
WI6

Registered: 03/23/08
Posts: 137
Gravsports won't allow me to upload pics...go look at my fb page....

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