26-Dec-2017

Approach: Not too much snow and a well defined trail. The trail is pretty much sugar snow so a little bumpy and not packing smooth but it takes a decent line and where it crosses the creek it seemed in good shape except for one or two slightly booming crossings.

*Chantilly Falls is in although the cold temps caused crampon failures with both partners. Fortunately that didn't happen to them on Moonlight.
*2Low4Zero has pretty much no ice until half way up. Just rock and snow.
*Snowline has the thinnest prettiest veneer of ice all up the first pitch. Even if your tools didn't rip the hell out of it, there's no pro. After where the "cave" would be it starts to fatten up. So maybe it may yet form but it sure ain't in right now.
*Moonlight is in good shape. Take that with the knowledge that -27c makes for hard brittle ice with mucho fracturing. First pitch to the cave belay takes good pro with some mushrooms to gain the cave. Second pitch out of the cave is quite steep but featured. Last pitch is good and ends at a relaxed flat stance.
FWIW 2x60m ropes will go top to cave, then a second rap to the ground. There is a v-thread between the second and third pitch and the v-thread to the ground might be a rope stretcher with 2x60m but probably will reach. Climb was dry all the way yesterday, and besides a couple of hikers we had the creek to ourselves.

**Warning - rant ahead**
There are two v-threads in the first half of the first pitch. We didn't need them to rap, and I considered pulling my knife on rap. They are atrocious. I can't speak to the quality of the hole but the cords are both tied wrong. Both had the tails sticking out the same side of the knot. One knot I wasn't even sure what the fuck it was meant to be, the other was a full on euro death knot. I'm not talking the overhand knot that we use to rap, but the fig 8 EDK that kills people.
There is absolutely no reason or excuse to half ass the making of a thread. To tie an EDK in both tails means you are either ignorant of the danger, too lazy to bother doing it right, or a statistic waiting to happen.
I doubt the persons who tied them will identify themselves but in future please take the extra minute to use an accepted knot such as a double fisherman or a rethreaded 8, because your safety and that of anyone else who might clip it, depends on you getting it right to start with.
**End rant**