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Avalanche Conditions
CRITICAL TO CHECK.

Mountain Safety
Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.

Gravsports.com
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

ACMG
Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

CASA
Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

TABVAR
Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#19292 - 12/19/17 09:20 AM Grotto 2017/2018
chris pooley Offline
WI1

Registered: 02/17/16
Posts: 1
Climbed Grotto yesterday. Ice is in good shape, with lots of little steps. Top anchor (bolts and chain, climbers left) is easy to get to. Mid anchor is visible ((bolts and chain, climbers left), but about 2 feet beyond my reach. Climb with 2 ropes, or prepare to down-climb or set up a v-thread.

His and hers are forming nicely, but look pretty fragile (but I am old school).

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#19310 - 01/05/18 09:33 PM Re: Grotto 2017/2018 [Re: chris pooley]
Ian Greant Offline

WI7

Registered: 11/07/07
Posts: 251
Loc: Calgary & Canmore AB
Grotto Falls, His and Hers all in decent shape today. A bit wetter than expected. Didn't climb Grotto falls but another party we talked to said it was very wet.
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#19312 - 01/06/18 10:53 PM Re: Grotto 2017/2018 [Re: chris pooley]
Grant P Offline

WI 10
*

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 1041
Loc: Calgary
6-Jan-2018

First step on lower pitch had copious amounts of wet bobbly chandelier and lots of water dripping. The very far left actually looked somewhat dry but generally building fast and not easily protected.
Second step was a little drier and the left and right lines were a tad better with the middle being wetter.

Halfway anchors: on climbers left a pair of ring bolts are a stretch to reach. The older anchor in the left corner has newer hardware and might be easier to reach although an awkward slope and better to clip and downclimb back to the flat. Another anchor on climbers right is situated higher than the big flat ledge and has a small flat stance.

Upper pitch has yet to bulk out to usual volumes but is in good shape and generally dry. The top out has some fracturing to avoid. Bolted anchor easily accessible. There was a trail leading higher up the drainage. Not sure of conditions as you go higher but I did it a few years ago and remember it being discontinuous and easy. An interesting distraction but only felt the need to check it out the one time. Maybe better now?

When we (the late shift) got there, there were many people around His and Hers with five ropes (2 x His. 2 x Hers. 1 x mixed) in use. After climbing Grotto people were filtering away and we had no problem getting on Hers. The two climbs were in generally good shape.

A couple climbers had gone looking for Crystal Tear. Not sure what they found as they said it was on the left whereas Crystal Tear is on the right. Haven't heard any confirmed reports on the state of CT.

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