Avalanche Conditions

Mountain Safety
Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#19314 - 01/07/18 08:12 PM GBU area
Grant P Offline

WI 10

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 1041
Loc: Calgary

Social day at GBU saw ropes on various lines including the mixed line left of Indifferent. Indifferent looked quite chandeliered for the last few metres and rather thin grey at the start. Nobody opted to climb it.
GBU Left had a rope on it and climbed well although the far left side was really wet, middle dry, right maybe slightly wet but not climbed.
GBU middle has a narrow pillar but it has a fracture up high. It wasn't climbed although the mixed line right of the pillar was climbed. Apparently the bolted anchor for it has some issues with bolts getting iced over. Be ready to drill a v-thread if needed. I think it might have been pretty drippy climbing too from what I heard.
GBU Left Right had a rope on it on a steep line. There was a groove just left of the steep line that while probably easier was also wetter as you got further left.

Overall not too bad shape with some wetness on some lines, others dry, and very little sun rot so far.

Edit: Sleep deprivation leads to similar cognitive abilities as booze but seeing as I don't drink Scotch it must be the former. Thanks Ian.

Edited by Grant P (01/08/18 11:30 PM)
Edit Reason: Me no know which hand.

#19315 - 01/08/18 02:13 PM Re: GBU area [Re: Grant P]
Ian Greant Offline


Registered: 11/07/07
Posts: 251
Loc: Calgary & Canmore AB
Grant, you must have getting too friendly with the post climbing Scotch. Pretty sure the steep line was on GBU Right. wink
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