Sat 20-Jan-2018

Approach has a good trail with most creek crossing well bridged. Once you get below the drainage and follow the bootpack up the hill, keep a heads up because the bootpack makes a turn towards the conglomerate at one point. When the sun is out you're going to be in an area prone to loose rocks bouncing at you.

The climb is mostly snow free. Most steps are dry although there are lines that are wet-ish. Probably to be expected but the ice is dry and brittle and fractures in sections. Main pitch is steeper and dry/brittle on the left. Another party was on that line so I headed right. It was awesome with wet plastic ice but reaching out left gave me a dry line for the rope and placing screws.

The anchor below the main pitch is on the high side at the moment. I thought after last season it might need placing higher but good for now. I had decided to carry some chain up there and quicklinks. The anchor above the main pitch is now wearing that so there will be less tat ending up in the drainage.