Climbed from bottom to top on centre line today. Left side is unusually lean and not protectable in current state. Right line is just formed, with one pillar (third tier) not well attached at base. Lots of water running. Felt like fairly hard 4. They are hauling, so road is in good shape.
We arrived in the afternoon on Feb 3th after a long drive. We talked to the first group that finished the climb. They started early and said that the ice was soft, pro not so great and some sections were a bit sketchy. There was a second group just finishing up the climb when we joined the other group of 4 top roping on the lower pitch. I climb the lower left pitch to the ledge and found the ice was too soft to continue up the 4 with adequate protection, so I dug deep to built an anchor for top roping. After my partner climbed we noticed a piece of ice randomly fall while no one was above. It was a hmmm moment. So I went up to move the rope to the far left bolts where the other group just finished. At about 12m from bolts the climb above me started rumbling when I looked over my shoulder to see ice flying down. I ran down the V of a narrow snow covered ledge and jumped in bottom digging my feet in, doing the turtle and covering my head while chunks of ice rained down. Most was tolerable, but a couple of pieces were large with one damaging my helmet and bruising my head, and another hitting my back hard. It took what seemed like forever to confirm everyone was OK while I quickly moved to the bolts and set up my rap. For those on the ground, a lot of ice fell throughout the area but only my partner's ankle was hit leaving her bruised and swollen. The top two pictures below are before and the last after the ice fell. When we were walking up to the climb, the second group was directly below the large sheet of ice that fell just over an hour after they left. That was a close call for many and some didn't even know it. Like Brent Peters' guide book says, this climb detaches mid to late season, but seems that it may be starting earlier this season.