Avalanche Conditions

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Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#19294 - 12/19/17 05:02 PM Fryatt Valley - Ice Palace 1&2: 12/16/2017
Andrew Baisley Offline

Registered: 11/29/17
Posts: 12
Loc: Alberta

Fryatt Valley - Ice Palace 1&2

December 16, 2017

Trip Report:

Stayed at the Athabasca Hostel Thursday night so we could get an alpine start on the day. It was clear we were the first two people into the Alpine Club of Canada Sydney Vallance (Fryatt) Hut since snow fell. This resulted in breaking a lot of trail! Weather was ideal -5 daytime highs and -10 overnight.

I had a lot of difficulty finding good images of this climb in the past, so I wanted to focus on taking lots of pictures. Being newer to ice climbing, this was a good objective for us work on our multi-pitch skills. The ice conditions were not fantastic, there was a lot of rotten snow overlaying the ice, so a lot of work to make upwards progress. Below the snow was a sun affected ice layer about 4" that also needed to be cleared prior to any tool or screw placement.

Due to the slow going and some weather pushing in, we happily bailed off the route about 70% up, in hopes to complete it another day! We have been to the hut in February 2017, and that is when I would set my sights to return, to let the ice form up a little bit better.

I'm a new contributor here, but love pushing into these deeper objectives. So if there are more climbs shrouded in mystery, send me a message and I will see if I can get in to report back! Least I can do after all of the leeching i've done on here!

Approach Notes:

River was unfrozen, had to approach via Athabasca Falls parking lot and make the 24km journey along the river and up the valley. Made for a long day and navigation in the dark.

Gear Notes:

10 screws varying lengths.

#19297 - 12/21/17 04:30 PM Re: Fryatt Valley - Ice Palace 1&2: 12/16/2017 [Re: Andrew Baisley]
Ted Raven Offline

Registered: 03/07/16
Posts: 25
Loc: Jasper
Super cool!! I have always wanted to see pictures of these climbs.

#19368 - 02/08/18 12:42 PM Re: Fryatt Valley - Ice Palace 1&2: 12/16/2017 [Re: Ted Raven]
Andrew Baisley Offline

Registered: 11/29/17
Posts: 12
Loc: Alberta
Headed back in a week for some redemption!


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