Sat 10-Feb-2018

The approach hasn't yet filled the drainage with a sheet of ice so its a mix of rock stumbling and ice skating. Either take microspikes or skirt the edges to where its easier to don the crampons and walk up the frozen creek.

First pitch isn't yet suffering with sun rot. In fact most pitches including the final side wall pitch are in reasonable shape. The main problem is open holes. We skirted a couple with a hope and a prayer. I got to play knee deep in one hole when the edge decided to become a free floating chunk of ice. That was the final main pitch in the canyon leading up to the chockstone. There is ice below the chockstone that had a partially frozen over v-thread, but no ice around the chockstone itself making for a drytooling top out. A little awkward and our leader was a little intimidated by it so I finished it up. Although the climb is mostly easy and mellow for a W3 leader, it does present a challenge for someone of that lead ability, so worth being aware of. If you bail from there (per the existing v-thread) then you miss out on the beautiful sidewall finish. Nice condition with good gear.
We also bypassed one open pool via a zigzag up rock ledges/slopes. Could be sketchy if clear of snow but the whole canyon had new snow including our bypass.

I asked a party who climbed it a few days ago how the rap anchors were. I remembered climbing the route a couple years ago and it needing some TLC but I was told it was good except for one station only having a quick link on one of the bolts. They were wrong. On that assesment I took a couple ring hangers and a wrench but no drill kit. The second pitch had two old studs, missing any hardware, and bent over. New bolts and hardware needed. Further up I found the station with only one quicklink and a piece of cord tied through both bolts in an American death triangle. That station now features two new ring hangers. Further up there was a station that had one ring hanger, and a piece of old rope tying one hanger to the other. Placing a second ring hanger would cause the rope to need pulling around a rock so the better solution would be chain extending the one bolt to the other replacing the old rope. Yep, you guessed it - I left the chain with the drill haha.
Lastly there is one step that isn't especially steep or long but if you had a beginner who preferred to rap, there is only one bolt. By typical standards there ought to be a second bolt.

I'll go back at some point to retro fix this stuff but I have no idea when. If someone beats me to it, please post or shoot me a PM to save me hauling a drill thanks.