Have arrived in Banff for our anually ice-climbing trip a few days ago and went for "Essondale Right" as a warm up. We figured out a mixed line worth climbing a bit left to the steep pillar of P2. Have returned yesterday to climb it.FA:
Alex Gruber, Hubert Hortschitz 12.Feb.2018First Redpoint:
Alex Gruber 12.Feb.2018Area:
Golden, Kicking Horse CanyonApproach:
(as Essondale right) see page 98 of IceLines or page 174 of Joe Josephson guide bookP1:
WI3-4 10m (as Essondale right)P2:
Austrian Possibility WI6+, M6/7, 50mP3:
WI3-4 60m (as Essondale right)
Start of the route is pretty thin right now and difficult to protect. The rock part itself is not that difficult but entering the dagger/curtain is more strenuous (pull up) due itīs size and the overhanging. Two pitons are in place in the rock part before climbing onto the icicle.
One piton got a longer sling so anybody can put the quickdraw in from below.As Will wrote in his IceLine commentary: ice grades try to generalize conditions across seasons... Itīs a system doomed to inaccuracy at best and chaos normally.
Any feedback of other parties climbing the line is welcome. If anybody is willing to put bolts in, you are welcome todo so - we didnīt bring the drill with us and it was possible with pitons anyway.
Rgds Alex & Hubert