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#8434 - 01/11/11 10:07 AM Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan
lknight Offline
WI4

Registered: 11/11/07
Posts: 24
Loc: Coldstream, B.C.
Marc Piche and I climbed Mythologic, WI6, 140m on Enderby Cliffs in the North Okanagan on January 10, 2011. The route is highly visible from Highway #97, forms annually and has intrigued local and travelling ice climbers for decades. However, due to the location (Okanagan Valley, west-facing) it can have a limited life span and get's baked out pretty quick.

A series of cold days/ evenings and cloudy days have kept it forming throughout December so I sussed out the approach and route on January 2. Garry Brace and I had a throw at it on January 4 and ran out of daylight at the top of p2 (p3 that day).

Marc and I were at the base by 9am, the hike was about 3 hours due to the new snow (2.25 hours in packed conditions). Marc led p1, climbing a short WI3+ pillar to the base of the main flow. He ducked in behind the pillar and climbed a couple of short WI4 steps behind to a cave belay. I led the first crux pitch, an aerated vertical p25m pillar (WI5+/6) to a ledge, then a short step behind the pillar to belay in a good cave. Marc led p3 (WI5/5+) out of the cave 10m vertical to a small ledge and the Jan 4 highpoint and thread, then traversed right under an icicled roof to the upper half of the pillar 25. This was followed by a short ramp to another spacious cave belay. P4 starts up another 20m of pillar (WI5) to a steep, ice-on-snow-on-ice ramp to the final stacked pillars (felt overhanging) into the trees (WI5+).

Three rappels, one from the trees and two from threads put us back at the base by 4pm.

Burly-steep and sustained for the length, excellent technical climbing, great belays and a cool location. We encountered a variety of ice types and good screws required some excavation on most of the pillars. Like a skinny Nemesis in November condtions. The ground water creates a golden/ brown ice colour. Marc commented on the other-worldly feel to the location and I was leaning towards calling it The Phoenix due to the colour and short life span. And the fact there’s a 140m WI6 in the Okanagan (!), we landed on Mythologic.

Approach: Park at Enderby Cliffs Provincial Park Trailhead five minutes east of Enderby, and follow the main trail to the first lookout (45 minutes). Hike another 300’ish metres on the summit trail to the second fence and head left (north) and approximately follow the edge of the bench through some unique, bouldery fetures. It's about a half hour from the main trail (fence) to a boulderfield where you can see the route. Pretty much bee-line to the route in about an hour from here, snowshoes are helpful but not necessary.

There’s a good trail packed in right now, the route is in shape and the threads are in place, go climb it!

Mythologic, WI6, 140m


Marc rapping from the trees.


Pitches 3 and 4 as seen on the approach.



Edited by lknight (01/13/11 08:18 AM)

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#8435 - 01/11/11 10:49 AM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
Greg Offline
WI7

Registered: 11/11/07
Posts: 188
What are the grades of the other ice formations on the cliff do you know/ I asked a local Enderby climber in 1996
about theses as they formed well that year when i lived nearby and he told me some of them were climbed in years previous
but mentioned one route that had been attempted but never completed, this must be it.
Nice one!

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#8444 - 01/11/11 02:24 PM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: Greg]
lknight Offline
WI4

Registered: 11/11/07
Posts: 24
Loc: Coldstream, B.C.
Originally Posted By: Greg
What are the grades of the other ice formations on the cliff do you know/ I asked a local Enderby climber in 1996
about theses as they formed well that year when i lived nearby and he told me some of them were climbed in years previous
but mentioned one route that had been attempted but never completed, this must be it.
Nice one!


I talked with Rick last night and he mentioned making this potential known in a write-up of the other climbs in the area quite a few years back. I'm not 100% sure but I have climbed a short WI2 and longer WI3 (120m) further out left and I'm also aware there is a WI4 (?) in the slot a few hundred metres left of Mythologic.

lk

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#8450 - 01/11/11 09:02 PM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
GoldenMike Offline
WI6

Registered: 12/01/08
Posts: 82
Loc: Golden, BC
Wow! Good on ya guys. A friend told me two days ago about this mythical line and said it had not been done yet! I was doing my research and I was thinking about heading out there on my next days off. Good on ya guys for beating me to it! Cheers!
_________________________
I have no idea where I am or what I am doing... I think I'll keep going:)

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#8454 - 01/12/11 07:20 AM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
lknight Offline
WI4

Registered: 11/11/07
Posts: 24
Loc: Coldstream, B.C.
Thanks GoldenMike, here's a link to a few more pics:

Crackbook-No Password Required

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#8461 - 01/12/11 03:02 PM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
BrendenR Offline
WI8

Registered: 11/07/07
Posts: 329
Loc: Alberta
Right on Guys! Bitchin' line!

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#8464 - 01/12/11 09:10 PM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
Rick Offline

WI4
*****

Registered: 03/23/08
Posts: 37
Loc: Armstrong BC.
This route has seen a number of attempts and forays over the years, but the conditions are short lived for safe (;-) climbing, and the approach used to be longer. It required what Lyle and Marc gave it, absolute commitment and skill. Congratulations guys!

Greg - There was a line or two we (Kerry Yaeger, Dean Flick and myself) did years ago to the left of the main cliff where it starts to taper off - about 3+. Waaay over the left past the next drainage there is another line I did with Howie Burchart, again maybe 3 - 3+. (For those that don't know, there is a lot of ice in the North Okanagan and Three Valley Gap, as well as around Revelstoke.)

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#8470 - 01/13/11 05:30 AM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
Barry Blanchard Offline
WI6

Registered: 11/22/07
Posts: 120
Loc: Canmore, Alberta, Canada
Piche flitting across the Western Cordillera floating like a butterfly, stinging like a bee.

Cool. A beautiful looking line gentlemen.

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#8478 - 01/13/11 01:11 PM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
KenC Offline

WI5

Registered: 11/26/08
Posts: 50
Loc: Prince George, BC
Impressive work Lyle! Nice to see the local boys gettin 'er done

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#9111 - 02/21/11 08:08 AM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: KenC]
lknight Offline
WI4

Registered: 11/11/07
Posts: 24
Loc: Coldstream, B.C.
I drove by Mytho on Feb 19 (yesterday) and it appears to have filled out considerably since Jan 10. The week is supposed to remain cool so it may be a good opportunity to get on 'er ...

Beware sunny afternoons on the route as the final pitch is sun-affected, esp. as the days get longer.

lk

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#10878 - 12/20/11 03:02 PM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
CJaeger Offline
WI6

Registered: 01/03/09
Posts: 146
Big writeup in the December issue of gripped. Cool stuff.

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#12705 - 11/16/12 10:43 AM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
Ben Stanley Offline
WI4

Registered: 11/01/12
Posts: 29
Loc: Kimberley
Wow... amazing line.

I'm coming into this thread late and not sure if anyone will even respond but its worth a shot...

Rick or Lyle.. you both seem to know the area well... between and adjacent Revelstoke, Kelowna, and Kamloops... would you know of any single pitch ice areas? I've heard of Malakwa Falls and a canyon near Clearwater... thats about it.

I'm new to the area and tried to post in another place on gravsports but got no response.

If you ever need a belay... I'd be happy to oblige.

PEACE!
Ben

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#12744 - 11/18/12 08:08 PM Re: Mythologic, WI6, 140m - North Okanagan [Re: lknight]
lknight Offline
WI4

Registered: 11/11/07
Posts: 24
Loc: Coldstream, B.C.
Hey Ben, just sent you a PM with my contact info, give me a shout.

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