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I agree with every single persons comments posted about redoing anchors on routes.
I am all for natural pro and natural anchors, I am not a huge bolt fan, and feel that in some cases it can be overdone.
The idea of redoing the anchors came from an ACC trip in there a few years back when one of the steps was rock at the top and the short step was a little tricky, and upon clearing the step spent a few minutes, looking for an anchor, as there was nothing but scree at the top of the pitch, so a body belay was in order, which was time consuming for a group of 6.... and maybe not the best.
So the plan was to go add one bolt.
Then there were the matter of two trees, that were both getting destroyed. and awkward to get too, so bolts got placed there.
then we just figured, might as well do the route right.
And in early season after climbing it and putting in some of the bolts, we forgot to place bolts on the first step( I belayed off of a rock anchor in a crack #1-2 Cams w/ C3's) However I was not willing to donate that gear as fixed gear, so I wrapped off of a 16 cm v thread backed with twocrappy 10 cms screws, and sending the fat kid first. The issue for me was always, unreliable ice on top of the steps, big pools of water and keeping the ropes out of them and safe anchors.
This is a beginners route, and a good beginners route at that. So, should beginners be subjected to anchors way harder than the climbing is?
As for Wully Canyon, how many people had heard of the route before this year? I bet this year the route has seen more traffic than the last 15 years? good or bad?
And when there is no ice on the chock stone, it is a great short well protected mixed problem that is surprisingly tricky. much more fun then when it is ice.
I do like hearing the climbing communities feedback on this issue.
And the talk of the hardmen on the FA, its just that placing bolts by hand sucks! they are not getting soft nor do they really care about being considered hardmen, the important thing is having a good safe day out and having others enjoy some of the contributions they have made. I dont know. More my opinion.
I went out on Macadamia rock climbing a few years back with one of the FA's with the intention of hand drilling a few extra bolts and the top anchors, because the feedback recieved was that they could use some work.
We got half of that done but didnt do the top anchors(time, it is still something that should be done). The routes well a tribute to the vision of those that put them up are also a contribution to the community, and deserve to be safe.
We are not talking ground breaking stuff like the maker, or creamed cheese, these routes define men and an era and are stuff we mere mortals strive for.
So thats my humble opinion.
But I do like hearing the feedback regarding this stuff.
thanks for the time
Greg
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