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#1015 - 02/25/08 09:30 AM
Nemesis
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GVK
WI3
Registered: 02/15/08
Posts: 14
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Climbed Nemesis Feb24. Donkey trail to the cone. Blue ice vein for the first half, blue curtain for the second half. 2 hanging belays on ice (1st and 3rd), rapped on vthreads and middle bolt station.
Awesome line, very nice hanging valley for ourselves!
Gilles & Kevin
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#1043 - 02/28/08 03:05 PM
Re: Nemesis
[Re: GVK]
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Smithj
WI2
Registered: 11/27/07
Posts: 8
Loc: Nomad
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any pics, by chance?
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#1045 - 02/28/08 06:22 PM
Re: Nemesis
[Re: GVK]
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Hans Brauner
WI2
Registered: 01/20/08
Posts: 7
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Carlos Buhler and I climbed Nemesis yesterday (Wednesday Feb 28). On the approach we met two Slovenians on snowshoes who had turned around halfway up the snow slope towards Suffer Machine as it had whoomped. On the other side (south facing) of the valley we saw two avalanche paths. We probably should also have turned around but skied up the slope towards Nemesis. Found deep unconsolidated snow but no whoomping.
Once you get safe to the ice it is in very good condition and the climbing was very enjoyable. We climbed the first half in one long pitch with 60 meter ropes simul climbing the last 10-15 meters. On the second pitch Carlos took a mixed variation climbing up the rock/ice corner until he could traverse to a funny ice cave/ledge. A short third pitch took us to the top of the route where we found a good anchor with a metal ring that took us all the way back to the bolted rock belay on the ledge left of the route.
All in all a great route if you can stomach the current avalanche danger. We didn't like the slope - but went up there never the less.....
Nemesis as of February 28
Carlos Buhler taking an unusual start of the "traverse pitch"
Suffer Machine as of February 28. Looks in good condition but beware of the avalanche slope leading up to the route.
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#1152 - 03/13/08 07:23 PM
Re: Nemesis
[Re: Hans Brauner]
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Anton
WI3
Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 18
Loc: Calgary
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Can anyone provide an update regarding the avi risk or snow conditions of the slopes leading up to Nemesis?
Is Nemesis in good condition, or has warmer weather begun to affect it? ...also, any particular pitches/sections/info to be aware of?
Thanks,
Anton
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#1153 - 03/13/08 11:21 PM
Re: Nemesis
[Re: Anton]
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farrgo
WI3
Registered: 11/08/07
Posts: 14
Loc: WA
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Avi conditions are A-okay. Nemesis is totally sweet. Pursue life, follow your dreams, climb now.
_________________________
"You're limping Ben..."
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#1154 - 03/13/08 11:54 PM
Re: Nemesis
[Re: Anton]
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tetoncaresser
WI1
Registered: 03/02/08
Posts: 2
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Was great with nothing to worry about other than the usual when ice climbing. The slope felt good last week. Big skis or snowshoes would be helpful with the rotten snow.
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#1237 - 03/27/08 02:10 PM
Re: Nemesis
[Re: Grant P]
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Pierre D
WI3
Registered: 11/07/07
Posts: 13
Loc: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Anyone got on it this week? Is it still in good condition?
Cheers
Pierre
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#1246 - 03/30/08 09:47 PM
Re: Nemesis -stuck ropes, please return for reward
[Re: Pierre D]
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Anton
WI3
Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 18
Loc: Calgary
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Pierre and I climbed Nemesis today. Fantastic climb in a great setting - no wonder its a classic!
Our day would have been shorter had we not messed up and got the ropes stuck while rapping the bottom pitch. I actually re-climbed the pitch, but in my foggy/tired state I managed to still not fix the problem – so the ropes are on the climb! If you go to climb it we'd really appreciate getting our ropes back. I will gladly offer a case of beer to anyone who returns them (I'm more than happy to pick them up in Calgary, Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise, Field, etc). Please email: bazehead_AT_gmail.com Thanks!! 
Other than that the climb was great. Its steep throughout with some bad ice sections at the top of each pitch. The first pitch and parts of the second were nicely hooked. Note: we did the first pitch in 75m to the midway anchor in the cave. Then led the second pitch up and traversing thru funky/rotten ice to a decent groove, then up to the top. I'm not sure I'd recommend doing the second pitch in one 70m shot - very sustained and not worth the risk of falling, or worse as happened today on Guinness.
Attached are some pics of the day.
Attachments
Description: Nemesis - Mar 30, 2008
Description: Nemesis - pitch 1 with our stuck ropes. Reward offered for their return. Thanks! :)
email: bazehead_AT_gmail.com
Description:
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#1283 - 04/06/08 01:46 PM
Re: Nemesis -stuck ropes, please return for reward
[Re: Anton]
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Anton
WI3
Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 18
Loc: Calgary
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...the ropes have been retrieved.
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