Avalanche Conditions

Mountain Safety
Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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#1015 - 02/25/08 09:30 AM Nemesis
GVK Offline

Registered: 02/15/08
Posts: 14
Climbed Nemesis Feb24. Donkey trail to the cone. Blue ice vein for the first half, blue curtain for the second half. 2 hanging belays on ice (1st and 3rd), rapped on vthreads and middle bolt station.

Awesome line, very nice hanging valley for ourselves!
Gilles & Kevin

#1043 - 02/28/08 03:05 PM Re: Nemesis [Re: GVK]
Smithj Offline

Registered: 11/27/07
Posts: 9
Loc: Nomad
any pics, by chance?

#1045 - 02/28/08 06:22 PM Re: Nemesis [Re: GVK]
Hans Brauner Offline

Registered: 01/20/08
Posts: 7
Carlos Buhler and I climbed Nemesis yesterday (Wednesday Feb 28). On the approach we met two Slovenians on snowshoes who had turned around halfway up the snow slope towards Suffer Machine as it had whoomped. On the other side (south facing) of the valley we saw two avalanche paths. We probably should also have turned around but skied up the slope towards Nemesis. Found deep unconsolidated snow but no whoomping.

Once you get safe to the ice it is in very good condition and the climbing was very enjoyable. We climbed the first half in one long pitch with 60 meter ropes simul climbing the last 10-15 meters. On the second pitch Carlos took a mixed variation climbing up the rock/ice corner until he could traverse to a funny ice cave/ledge. A short third pitch took us to the top of the route where we found a good anchor with a metal ring that took us all the way back to the bolted rock belay on the ledge left of the route.

All in all a great route if you can stomach the current avalanche danger. We didn't like the slope - but went up there never the less.....

Nemesis as of February 28

Carlos Buhler taking an unusual start of the "traverse pitch"

Suffer Machine as of February 28. Looks in good condition but beware of the avalanche slope leading up to the route.
Hans Bräuner-Osborne

#1152 - 03/13/08 07:23 PM Re: Nemesis [Re: Hans Brauner]
Anton Offline


Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 313
Loc: Calgary
Can anyone provide an update regarding the avi risk or snow conditions of the slopes leading up to Nemesis?

Is Nemesis in good condition, or has warmer weather begun to affect it? ...also, any particular pitches/sections/info to be aware of?


#1153 - 03/13/08 11:21 PM Re: Nemesis [Re: Anton]
farrgo Offline

Registered: 11/08/07
Posts: 29
Loc: WA
Avi conditions are A-okay. Nemesis is totally sweet. Pursue life, follow your dreams, climb now.
"You're limping Ben..."

#1154 - 03/13/08 11:54 PM Re: Nemesis [Re: Anton]
tetoncaresser Offline

Registered: 03/02/08
Posts: 2
Was great with nothing to worry about other than the usual when ice climbing. The slope felt good last week. Big skis or snowshoes would be helpful with the rotten snow.

#1206 - 03/22/08 06:01 AM Re: Nemesis [Re: tetoncaresser]
Grant P Offline

WI 10

Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 1041
Loc: Calgary
Was on Nemesis yesterday. The approach was much as already described, good trail into the valley, then skiis or snowshoes advisable for the slopes. The snow has a sugary consistency, and you sink down good in occasional spots but better than boot packing in and postholing nastiness.

Andriy led up and took the left line on the first pitch. That put us through some crappy spots where a hard snow crust covers the ice making getting solid tool placements hard to work for. The crux pitch above the ledge was thankfully clear of this vertical snow... but steep. And I was only seconding it.

In retrospect the pillar going straight up to the ledge may have been better than the vertical snow crust on the left line.
Also two 60m ropes will just get you down with rope stretch from the bolted stance on the ledge.

#1237 - 03/27/08 02:10 PM Re: Nemesis [Re: Grant P]
Pierre D Offline

Registered: 11/07/07
Posts: 41
Loc: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Anyone got on it this week? Is it still in good condition?

#1246 - 03/30/08 09:47 PM Re: Nemesis -stuck ropes, please return for reward [Re: Pierre D]
Anton Offline


Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 313
Loc: Calgary
Pierre and I climbed Nemesis today. Fantastic climb in a great setting - no wonder its a classic!

Our day would have been shorter had we not messed up and got the ropes stuck while rapping the bottom pitch. I actually re-climbed the pitch, but in my foggy/tired state I managed to still not fix the problem – so the ropes are on the climb! If you go to climb it we'd really appreciate getting our ropes back. I will gladly offer a case of beer to anyone who returns them (I'm more than happy to pick them up in Calgary, Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise, Field, etc). Please email: Thanks!! \:\)

Other than that the climb was great. Its steep throughout with some bad ice sections at the top of each pitch. The first pitch and parts of the second were nicely hooked. Note: we did the first pitch in 75m to the midway anchor in the cave. Then led the second pitch up and traversing thru funky/rotten ice to a decent groove, then up to the top. I'm not sure I'd recommend doing the second pitch in one 70m shot - very sustained and not worth the risk of falling, or worse as happened today on Guinness.

Attached are some pics of the day.

Nemesis - Mar 30, 2008 (with lines, anchors).JPG

Description: Nemesis - Mar 30, 2008

Nemesis - Mar 30, 2008 (pitch 1 with stuck ropes)LR.JPG

Description: Nemesis - pitch 1 with our stuck ropes. Reward offered for their return. Thanks! :) email:

Nemesis - Mar 30, 2008 (LR).JPG

#1283 - 04/06/08 01:46 PM Re: Nemesis -stuck ropes, please return for reward [Re: Anton]
Anton Offline


Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 313
Loc: Calgary
...the ropes have been retrieved.


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