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#1059 - 03/01/08 11:14 PM Coire Dubh Integrale
Spencer Cox Offline
WI5


Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 42
Loc: Jasper / Calgary
Cian, Ben and myself went up there today. A bit windy in the AM with lots of snow clouds blowing around. Warmed up nicely once the sun got on there and made for a good day. The ice was in OK shape although there isn't very much real ice... once short pitch and some rambling steps...Definitely well worth while though! Next time I think I would rap / downclimb the route as that walk off goes on forever (even go to the peak, walk back and rap the route).

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Edited by Spencer Cox (03/01/08 11:15 PM)

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#1065 - 03/03/08 11:15 AM Re: Coire Dubh Integrale [Re: Spencer Cox]
wade graham Offline
WI1


Registered: 11/20/07
Posts: 3
I have done the decent both ways, rapping and the ridge and I would definately recomend the rap. Not much shorter but way more enjoyable.

W

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#1069 - 03/03/08 10:14 PM Re: Coire Dubh Integrale [Re: wade graham]
KevinW Offline
WI1


Registered: 12/12/07
Posts: 3
Loc: Calgary, AB
I've done the walk-off, rapped the route, and walked part way down the ridge before the wind convinced us to turn east and rap tree-to-tree down an arête which turned out to be the best descent route of all.

I've always found the the approach to be the worst part of the whole route. There's been wind crusted snow over the trail when I've been there, so I've never seen exactly what the trail itself looks like, but have always wondered if it was bare of snow as it sometimes can be, whether a mountain bike might be a viable option from Garbage Dump Alley to the edge of the scree approach?

Also.. was there a loose bolt on a big boulder? Are there any bolted anchors missing hangers, or has someone replaced them?

Thank for the photo's!

-Kevin

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#1072 - 03/04/08 10:19 AM Re: Coire Dubh Integrale [Re: KevinW]
Spencer Cox Offline
WI5


Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 42
Loc: Jasper / Calgary
Hey Kevin,

A mountain bike wouldn't have been any good this time... there is no escaping the slog ;\)

As for bolted anchors... we only saw one on the route just above the class 3 traverse above the first rock pitch which was out of the way left and probably a rap anchor. We weren't really looking for / expecting any though as they weren't mentioned in the book so we might have missed them?

I think we had four belays...

-one at the tree atop the first rock pitch.
-One off 2 cams and an angle piton in the big crack in the roof (and after what seemed like the hardest pitch of climbing...from the snow / scree to the ledge under the big roof).
-one off three tri-cams in some swiss cheese reef rock after traversing up and right from the roof belay.
-one off of a tree at the top after going a bit left then directly up to the top from the swiss cheese belay.

It seemed like there were a ton of possible lines so we might not have even been on one with bolted anchors.

Cheers,
Spence

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#1078 - 03/04/08 05:55 PM Re: Coire Dubh Integrale [Re: Spencer Cox]
KevinW Offline
WI1


Registered: 12/12/07
Posts: 3
Loc: Calgary, AB
Thanks Spence,

I'm thinking of doing it next weekend, maybe there'll be a scant bit of ice left for me by then. I hear you about the amount of possible lines, I know that I was on totally different lines both times.

I'm curious, how long it took you car-to-car?

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#1079 - 03/04/08 06:08 PM Re: Coire Dubh Integrale [Re: KevinW]
Spencer Cox Offline
WI5


Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 42
Loc: Jasper / Calgary
It took us about about 9 hours I think... left the car at 7:30 back by around 4:30. It felt like a lot of that was walking down that dam ridge... more than 2 hours. We were a group of 3 and for a couple of the rock pitches we seconded one at a time do to loose rock. Have fun, its certainly a nice time of year to be up there. It got warm by midday... bring sunscreen and sunglasses.
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#1184 - 03/18/08 06:05 PM Re: Coire Dubh Integrale [Re: Spencer Cox]
Spencer Cox Offline
WI5


Registered: 11/09/07
Posts: 42
Loc: Jasper / Calgary
What's next anyways? Anyone have recommendations for similar roots... that was dam fun! Even a bit harder would be fun.

Thanks!

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#1216 - 03/23/08 04:45 PM Re: Coire Dubh Integrale [Re: Spencer Cox]
Kevina Offline
WI1


Registered: 03/20/08
Posts: 1
Climed Integrale yesterday and the rock pitches were totally dry. Still enough snow covering alot of shit scree. Wind was minimal until we got to Doorjamb. There are so many choices for line after the crux pitch. Lots of fun.
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