Hi, Steve House here posting on Barry's log-in name.

Last Thursday, the 20th, Roger Strong and I climbed the Greenwood-Jones in 25.5 hrs round trip from a camp at Lake Annette. We got caught doing the last 1.5 pitches in the dark, but otherwise it went well.

Difficult to give route-beta for a line like this. Generally, start on the right side of the rib where the Dougherty book shows the line. Then follow the crest, but follow your nose. Some pitches are left of the crest, some to the right. Best to have a critical look before launching up the next pitch. Near the top, when it seems like it all looks too hard to be 5.8/a1, traverse 100 feet left (this is at the start of the limestone), climb a gully that felt about m6ish to another ledge, then traverse back to the crest. From here you should be able to see the upper pitches that Dougherty describes in detail. There are two fixed anchors above the 5.8 left-trending exit from the described alcove. The second anchor (nuts, not pins) is the correct one. I confirmed this in a discussion with Raphael who did the route a few weeks ago. The last pitch was slabby and had bad feet. I A0'ed thru that hooking the many fixed pins on the pitch. Too cold and dark to try to free it as I'd hoped. Plus I'd taken a small fall (roger didn't feel it) on the 5.8 pitch out of the alcove while trying to re-warm my hands. In total we belayed approximately 20 pitches, can't recall exactly. But no more than that I think.

Thanks to Raphael for the beta. We were freshly up here and I was a bit worried by the number of snow-avalanche related accidents and deaths this year. So we were happy to go somewhere we knew that the snow would be pretty safe. Indeed it seemed quite good as the wind has stripped most of the snow off the upper mountain and the descent was almost all easy walking. There was powder snow on the route, just enough to keep you from de-gloving, and to slow us down some.

The highlight of the climb was ascending the upper east ridge under the nearly-full moon and not a bit of wind. Beautiful.