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hey all, just my two cents.
I was originally taught to use the twisted sling with load limiter knots in it. Then I was taught not to, because it can apparently shock load the system even with the knots. and it has under certain conditions twisted itself into opening the carabiner,
Given that, the twisted sling is probably better when dealing with traverses coming into the belay and if conditions are such that things ice up and become like steel. YOu can set up a pre rigger anchor and clip it over your shoulder just like a regular shoulder length sling and because in theory it self equalizes, it is cosher.
The biggest draw back is the twisting and the risk of multiplication of forces if it blows.
An Equalized anchor tied off at an angle of 0-5' is supper solid as long as the pieces arent on the same bulge of ice. Any Anchor above 90' and the forces multiply to the individual pieces screws. hmmmmmmnn doesnt sound good. Well right.
I was informed this year in regards to this subject that there was a paper written by Iain Stewart Patterson regarding the twisted sling type of belay arrangement and that it is kosher! and maybe prefered. But This is heresay as I havent seen the paper. So who knows.
I have heard so many different views based upon who you talk to, especially among ACMG guides. That I have decided to play it case by case and rationally define my actions. Is it a straight forward anchor 2-3 screws relatively straight up? then why fuck around and why not just tie off and equalize? We all know this works so we fuck around? However if its a traverse, screws are bomber and its wet conditions then maybe ill use the pre tied twisted sling. So it depends. Sounds like a Bullshit answer but, I think it really does depend.
The main point is just not to fuck up.
It all works, just dont fuck up.
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