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Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.

Gravsports.com
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

ACMG
Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

CASA
Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

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#1290 - 04/08/08 01:23 PM Icefields Alpine Conditions Early April
grant Offline
WI4


Registered: 11/06/07
Posts: 26
It was a busy weekend in the Icefield area! Saw one party attempt the standard route of Athabasca only to get turned around by what looked like creavsses (and poor route selection!), the Shooting gallery looked like it was climbed on Saturday but parties attempting it and the A-strain on Sunday were beaten back by spindrift and generally poor weather.

One party also made a successful ascent of the Grand Central Couloir as well.

I will be updating the weather observations from the last week in the next few days but the Icefield Info Centre is now open so feel free to phone us at 780-852-6288 to get current weather, overnight freezing levels, and/or route conditions. If you need a Safety Registration or would like to fill out conditions reports, come by and see us!

Most ice climbs in the area are still in decent shape. Curtain Call is still in, the Wings and Stage are fat and blue. The Beauty Creek area is still holding up but I haven't ventured down to the Weeping Wall area this week so no ideas there.

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#1293 - 04/09/08 09:57 AM Re: Icefields Alpine Conditions Early April [Re: grant]
grant Offline
WI4


Registered: 11/06/07
Posts: 26
The GCC was climbed on the Monday April 7, it was not the same party as a month earlier, and unfortunately I did not get to talk to them about the conditions.

It looks great though!

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#1303 - 04/11/08 03:55 PM GCC [Re: grant]
J Mills Offline
WI1


Registered: 03/28/08
Posts: 2
Loc: Nordegg
GCC conditions on Monday 7th:
Wallowing to the narrows, shrunds/holes were well bridged.
Blanchard ice strip is fantastic with about 30 meters of mixed rock up to Rockies 5.9.
Upper coulior hard ice, exit pitch is sketchy and shitty, if I were to head up there again I'd either go straight up or try the cheeseburger thing.
Got pounded by spindrift and small sluffs all day which was unpleasant but never big enough to knock you off.
Cornice was fairly small and went quick.
Notch on descent was harder than anticipated but not as hard as it initially appears. Snow stability felt good, some big open terrain must be crossed on the descent.
Walking/skiing out to the car in the dark was balls, highly variable snow.
Take a bunch of screws, half a dozen cams to #2 Camelot, a few nuts(didn't use any), and a handfull of pins including some short KB's.
Hope this helps.
J.

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