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#1346 - 05/03/08 05:34 PM
Re: Professors
[Re: karel]
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karel
WI2
Registered: 12/31/07
Posts: 7
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Climbed the route today. Mostly good ice the whole way, just a little bit of sun-effect. Gets very hot during the day, it's days are numbered.
Karel
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#1363 - 05/10/08 08:46 PM
Re: Professors
[Re: karel]
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Grant P
WI5
Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 57
Loc: Calgary
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Took a buddy, Ryan from Ontario, out to Professors today so the deprived lad could get a little ice climbing done in May. 
The ice was still OK and fun, but had taken a bit of a hit. There was a lot of snow on the route and the ledges were starting to get a little slushy on the way down. Relatively dry on the way up though, as the majority of the water flowing is to the side or under the surface and only a wee bit drippy on the surface.
Unfortunately there was quite an amount of snowcone happening compared to the solid ice of two weekends ago. Tool sticks were decent if swung deep but it was often like kicking into snow for crampon placements. Screws were sometimes quick to melt out but better ice could be found by digging deeper. More competant leaders may be comfortable with the climbing/pro but if W3+ or W4 is your limit, you may not like it as much.
Above the third pitch, on the shorter snow walk, there was a fair amout of avalanche debris both above and below the ice step leading into the notch. We turned back at that point so I can't report on the condition of the last pitch.
The beefy chain anchors at the top of the second pitch are basically below the snow level, you may have to dig down for them if they're not visible.
There is enough ice there to be around for a while yet but the weather will determine how long it remains climbable.
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