50m downhill and (climbers) left of Cosmic Messenger - Ziggy Stardust? 110m M5 WI5

November 24, 2012

Trip Report:

Not sure if this is a new route, please feel free to chime in if you know it's been climbed before. No obvious signs of previous passage though.

No option to add a Trip Report in the New Routes forum so posting here instead....

Pitch 1 - 70m - M5 WI5
Climb the left hand of 2 short corners. Easier than it looks and protects really well. One fixed pin on right wall of corner.
At top of corner traverse right to reach the ice. Solid tools, not so great feet.
Once on the ice we followed it a full 70m until just below the final pillar in the corner. Hard to find a protected belay for the second but tucking into the corner works.

Pitch 2 - 25-40m - WI5
Harder than expected, climb the steep pillar with difficult protection. Belay wherever you can find decent ice at the top. We went all the way to the top of the easy ice (about 40m).

Descent
Rappel off v-threads. It's probably also simple to walk over to the top of Cosmic Messenger and rap that.


Approach Notes:

As for Cosmic Messenger

Gear Notes:

Light rock rack. Standard ice rack.