As in " You act like a big kid".
The obvious long line seen from Evan Thomas parking high up on Mt. Kidd to the left of Saddam's Insane.
Approach as for Saddam's Insane but continue up main bowl. Huge avy terrain.
Stop at a nice cave to suit up and leave poles.
Solo three easy steps until below two WI3 pitches, choose between 2 options. Traverse left on a snow slope and climb a WI3 pitch which is part of Dave Marra's route, Billy Goats Gruff. This is the "nice narrow WI3 referred to in that route description. A direct pitch could be climbed on slabs.
Rather than heading left as for BGG, traverse up and right to the obvious ice line up the middle of the headwall at the top of the bowl.
Rope up on a nice snow ledge to the left of a thin curtain. This is the start of Bigg Kidd.
Pitch 1: 30m, WI5. Climb thin detached curtain past three bolts to less steep ground. The sting in the tail is a rock step protected by one bolt. Traverse 1 meter past bolt to right to top-out. Clip single bolt to protect second then traverse snow ledge 6 meters to 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: 30m, M7+: Crank a large move off belay ledge with second bolt clipped. Move up and left to a chossy move onto a no hands rest ledge. Breakable holds on a slightly over-vertical wall lead to a small dagger and a flat ice ledge before the start of the ice pitches. Aprox. 10 bolts.
Pitch 3: 30m, WI4: Up fat ice steepening and finishing at base of thinner curtain. Pitch could be longer but think of your belayer.
Pitch 4: 60m, WI4+: Up vertical pillar for 8 meters to rambling grade three ice.
Rap the route.
The route has not been redpointed as 2 holds broke on pitch 2, resulting in two falls.
Final pitch tops out at aprx. 2750 meters, 1200 m above the valley. Beautiful place to be climbing ice once the rock is dealt with.
FA Raphael Slawinski
Much bolt pulling by Ian Welsted
Edited by iwelsted (12/01/13 04:12 PM)