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#3689 - 03/31/09 05:16 PM The Condemned
ken wallator Offline
WI5

Registered: 11/19/08
Posts: 42
Went soloed this new route today;or I think it is A new route?
Route is in the Brule area,drive through Brule-continue down the road towards ogre canyon,drive for 3.1 km park in abvious grassy area by road,look up can see upper pitch in gulley about 1km above valley,hike through trees till come to creek bed follow this till come to a obvious junction,take right fork can see first pitch from here,about 1 hour trek.
First pitch climb steep thin ice for 7 meters it is a little harder than it looks,hike up gulley above pitch for 200 meters you come to second easy 5 meter pitch,head up for 30 meters to base of a awsome 35 meter pitch of buetiful alpine like ice,then climb snow for 10 meters to anouther 5 meter pitch,head up snow for 60 meters,climb last short picth.Climb ends at base big limestone wall,decend off climbers left,no raps,steep turf.
This is a great line lots fun in good setting,half fun,KEN WALLATOR.

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#3696 - 04/01/09 10:06 AM Re: The Condemned [Re: ken wallator]
AJones Offline
WI3

Registered: 03/03/08
Posts: 19
Loc: Hinton, Alberta
Is it pretty obvious to find? About how long on the approach? Could a guy do this and Ingredient 16 in a day? I think Greg and I may try this on Sunday.

Aaron

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#3698 - 04/01/09 11:18 AM Re: The Condemned [Re: AJones]
ken wallator Offline
WI5

Registered: 11/19/08
Posts: 42
From that grassy area 3.1km on ogre road you can see some ice up high through some popular trees,approach is 1hour to base first short pitch,easy bush travel to creek bed,I climbed ingredent 16 last weekend wicked route lots fun steep funky ice,worlds hardest grade 3 I thought it was harder than carlsberg in field,doing both in a day should be no problem for you vetrans,have fun,KW.

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#3701 - 04/01/09 01:50 PM Re: The Condemned [Re: ken wallator]
AJones Offline
WI3

Registered: 03/03/08
Posts: 19
Loc: Hinton, Alberta
Thanks for the beta Ken - we will let you know how it goes. Sounds very cool! I hear you about Ingredient 16 - we did it a couple of years ago, and it was like dead vertical for 40 metres; world's hardest grade 3 indeed.
AJ


Edited by AJones (04/01/09 01:51 PM)

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#3720 - 04/02/09 06:32 PM Re: The Condemned [Re: AJones]
D.Vonk Offline
WI5

Registered: 02/27/09
Posts: 44
Loc: Canada, Edmonton
We headed out to bruel a few times this season and have been great! when we attempted ingredient sixteen it was rotted out and shelfing pretty bad. but may be back in good shape now? that was about 5 weeks ago id say. ogercanyon was a blast tho fun few hours. i havent seen this little jem you speak of but im sure to find it very soon now!

D.

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#3758 - 04/06/09 10:12 AM Re: The Condemned [Re: ken wallator]
AJones Offline
WI3

Registered: 03/03/08
Posts: 19
Loc: Hinton, Alberta
We climbed "The Condemed" on Sunday. The first pitch wasn't in (I actually sunk a tool into it and almost pulled the whole thing off - it was gone by the time we got back to the bottom). It was a cool little climb with an alpine flavour. It was nice to get up high and see the beautiful limestone. After climbing it, we went over to the Juno Wall (near Syncline Ridge) and climbed rock in the afternoon. There's some pictures of the ice climb on my SP page:
The Condemed pics
Thanks for the good beta!


Edited by AJones (04/06/09 10:13 AM)

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