Anyone out there have some info on either the West Rib or Cassin routes ? I know there is a TON of info online but if someone has some first hand knowledge it would be great to hear. Some pics of the crux's would be awesome. Looking to go for one of these route this May. Happy climbing !

Josh,

a MUST READ is the SuperTopo of the Cassin Ridge. An excellent publication with an excellent topo, good article on logistics, gear and the route cruxes. One of the cruxes is a knife-edge ridge, quite long, either GOOD PRO or scary NO PRO.

I hope you get it done! I wish you luck and be safe.

How early in May? I did the West Rib a few years back in end of May and the crux was the cold temps druing the nights!
Otherwise the climbing wasn´t hard, just cold (thermometer stoped working at -50°C, that happened a few times). Another good guide book is High Alaska by Jon Waterman with lots of good pics from B. Washburn (am I spelling his name right?)
Didnt take many pics on the Rib.
Anyhoo, I wish I was going too.

If you want some beta on the Cassin email me at iwelsted@gmail.com if you want

Climbed the west butt in 2000 and I'm starting think about a return to the cassin. I have lots of info and an info book from the national park I could give you too. Call me at 763-1114 if you're interested.

It's a great mountain.

Thanks everyone.., I did get the free download from supertopos and it is a great source.
Brian i may drop you a call thanks.

iwelsted Thanks i will shot you an email for sure !

Getting amped for the trip just got to get though school until dec then train train train !

Hi Josh,

I too have climbed the Cassin and would be more than happy to share information with you. I can be emailed at a54u2@msn.com! I am psyched for you as it is an amazing route/experience.

Cheers,

Blair

Joe's book is great for photos and info for The Range.
I can drop a few tid bits on you from my experience the the Cassin in 07.

The Jap Couloir has a crux noted as 80 degree ice. We found approx 12 feet of 90-95 degree ice. Fun with 25 lb packs. Global warming making things spicy.
When you traverse 80' right, above Cassin Ledge, Look for a mixed weakness in that little band. We found it to be mostly rock with a little ice.
The Knife Edge Ridge had snow on it. It was just kicking steps and we did not place any gear. We did it in a whiteout so we did not notice the exposure but my partner did ride a cornice off the ridge near the bivy at 14K. No problem making it here the 1st day from the shrund.

The rock bands were good fun. You end up just kinda following the path of least resistance. All the fresh snow had us digging for ice and holds at times.
Looking at the triangle roof bivy, I would avoid that bivy if i had the time to finish the rock band. We bivied above the rock band at 16,7 on day two.
Weather cleared but our 2 person sleeping bag was frozen solid. Just slept in our clothes.

From 16,7 to 18K was post holeing except for a good bit of front pointing in the wide couloir below 17K.

Looking up from 18K we could not see a path of least resistance. It is a huge broad, boulder strewn area. As we moved higher we just followed the path of least resistance. This would not be the area to be in poor visibility. Life would suck. Just as long as you stay to the left of the "ridge".

We only bived on the two spots I noted. The 1st being the BEST. Light and "fast" was our friend. Weather was very unsettled that year.

If you want pictures or other info, just ask.

Have back up routes in case the Cassin does not pan out. There were teams from all over the world there to try the Cassin (as they are every year). The British team was the only team to climb it that year and it took them 6-7 days. They took 5 or 6 crevasse falls in the Valley of Death. We did not fall in but were hit by a blast from serac fall between the Rib and the Cassin. We also did the Valley in whiteout conditions, for the most part.

The Rib looks cool. Get Joe's book and oogle all the other routes in the range.
The Harvard Route on Huntington is spectacular (my favorite route). The SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 is great. Ham and Eggs on the Mooses Tooth can get crowded. Hunter has some fun stuff to do.

Good luck

http://www.myspace.com/johnalpinism

Check out the SLIDE show. It can watch "full" screen.

Email me a climbhigh AT cox.net for more pictures

John