Climbed Guinness today with Chris and Richard.

Conditions as above. Ice is that brittle boilerplate with many hooking opportunities. Good sticks, hard cranking on the screw to get them in. Yes the screws were sharp.

Snowing in Field today, About 3-4cm while we were on the climb.

Climbed Guinness yesterday with Walter S. The climb is hooked out throughout and had little snow on the ice itself. Its possible to hook the whole route. It is thinner than years past and we found medium (blue handle BD) screws bottomed out here and there. There does not seem to be much additional moisture adding to the ice at this point.

Glassed Carlsberg from the Emerald Lake raod before we started and a party of 3 were at the base. The approach ice pitch looks thin and slabby and route proper looks a bit more funky to start (mushrooms) with a hooks on the centre-left. The upper 1/3 looks thinner and steeper than usual.

Climbed Guisnees G, Guiness Stout and High test two days ago. Stout and High test were awesome. Worth the walk but I found high test a little harder, aka continuous than stout. The book says the opposite.

Stout would take good screws all the way but high test would be thin for the first 20m or so. My partner Robb wanted to solo both so I bowed out from leading and followed on the tope rope he dragged up. Solid.

The trail up was broken and took only about 20 minutes taking our time.

Found conditions today to be similar to the above post. The only difference being High Test now takes good screws bottom to top.

Climbed Guiness Gully and Stout yesterday. Gully continues to be hook fest and stepped out. Stout was fat and took all lenght screws all the way up - a bit dinner platey. High Test looked fat.

Did guiness again...I think 4th time this season.this time with guv and my newbie neighbour craig who went up his first ever multi pitch adventure. Other than the conditions were great (big feet and nice hooking) we met a party of 3 chix with pix led by margo. Good news is she has promised to inquire about a reprint of the ice guidebook - yipee as mine is glued with juice...

Guinness is a hook fest, at least the first pitch, (don't even think about swinging your tool unless you are packing a file), gets progressively better after that. Don't know why it has taken me so long to go up the gully to 'Stout' but it is well worth it. Great blue clear ice, sustained grade 4+ for 40+ meters. Just do it.

look ma, no tools! climbed (seconded) the first 2 pitches of guiness with my tools clipped to my harness; was on it last week and it was such a ridiculous hookfest i thought 'why not?'. tried the third pitch but it was too slick for me to get off the ground without using my tools.
stout was great fun; actually got to swing the tools!

Climbed Guinness on Tuesday to finish of a great week with Paul. First pitch is a little thin and junky, but still a fun climb.

Climbed Guinness Gully and Stout on Monday March 15. The gully is a bit pegged out, but Stout was very nice. Sorry, I spaced my camera. Definitely worth the walk.