Albeit, I don't mind the hike but really haven't the time; therefore has anyone been into Hoodoo Hall lately?

Much appreciated

Harlan

Hi Clmbed Green Angel Last Sunday. Climb is in stellar condition with some rather gnarly mushrooms that really worked me in the upper section of the first pitch. Harder than the Eagle this year. Have fun.

How was the Pro?? We hiked in last monday, but it looked hard and thin. I am not quite at that level yet.

Pro was decent, lots of hooking, thin mushrooms, steep hard ice and a thin Scottish ice gully to top out. The climb was exceptional has not seen a lot of traffic (thank God), I would have to say that if there was one climb in the Ghost that I had to do this is it. Have waited 13 years for this day and the wait was worth it all.

BTW, we were at the upper belay at 12:30-1:00 PM and were basking in the sunshine, nirvana.....

That being said this climb will disappear in 2-3 weeks.

To Whoever left the the tat for the rap, excellent job well done!!!

And I believe that we left a blue/red sling at the upper belay, to whom every finds it, it's yours.

Cheers

Harlan

Video of route

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=323010120814&saved

And Freddy at the belay.

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=322990500814&saved

Was in there today (Friday) with Joe. Joe lead although I needed to send him a few more screws up to finish the whole climb in one pitch. Not sure what the above posts referring to 1st/upper pitches are. Anywhere around the halfway would be something of a shooting gallery and better to climb it in one 50m pitch. The climb had quite a bit of dessicated ice on it making for some great hooking on much of the climb, albeit insecure in spots. there is an existing v-thread halfway up someone used for single rope rapping but it's looking fairly shallow, probably melting out some. Better to take half ropes and rap in one go, I wouldnt trust the existing thread. Much of the climb had good feet and getting calf rests was relatively easy. Tricky climbing balance wise with a slightly overhanging bulge leads up to the upper part of the climb above the v-thread. Despite hooking opportunities, where swinging was needed, it would often result in fractured ice falling. The last part of the climb and not really visible from the base is suffering. The Scottish gulley part (why do we use this term - there's no turf or warthog use up there but guilty of the same reference myself on occasions) has two thin runnel sections. The first part is reasonable quality but thin and maybe 14" wide. Get a decent screw before entering this section, even stubbies may bottom out. There is then a small platform followed by a very short but thick, good, steeper ice that would take excellent screws or a v-thread. This is followed by another even narrower, thinner, more sun rotted runnel. The good thing is that the runnels are fairly low angle and a cool head with gentle tapping rather than swinging will yeild tool and crampon placements. A couple of hot sunny days might kill these runnels but climbing it this weekend if it's cloudy might be OK.

There is fairly recent blue/white cord on the bolted anchor at the top but there was no sign of any red sling.

The guide book refers to another couple of flows above so we went exploring. They were reminiscent of VOTB or THOS. Just around the corner is the first. Both are short W3 flows with the second ending at a chock stone. I figured it was easier to downclimb than top it out then we left a v-thread to rap the initial short flow. Does anyone know if there is more ice above or is it these two short flows that the guidebook references?

The approch was relatively free of snow unlike the first time I did this climb when we postholed half of the way in. That was two years ago and there was WAY more ice. It was also later in the season which leaves me wondering if later season freeze thaws really fatten this climb up or is it more likely that once the runnels fall, topping out this climb will be done for the season? Even if topping out is not possible, I'd say this would still be a cool climb. The approach and canyon type ambiance make it worth the hike.

Thanks for the post Grant,

Climbed Green Angel with Katarina Feb 24. The climb is thinning out and getting narrower and glossy. Great ice quality, lots of hooks, one sticks, with 2 slightly overhanging sections, difficult to get foot placements. Good pro. Would say in it's current shape it's 4+. The upper runnel was scary and delicate to climb. It was 6 inches at the narrowest part, and mainly consisted of snice that would crack and break away even with very light taps. The last body lenghth required using hands on rock, thank god for that tree stump to swing your tools in for topping out!!! DO NOT attempt to reach the bolts (55m), I had trouble topping out, and it was even worst for my 2nd, not a place you would want to get stuck - the rock is water-worn with barely any holds. Also highly doubt it would fill in late season, everything higher is dry. Would HIGHLY recommend the first 40m of the climb, it feels a lot like Wicked Wanda right now, maybe even better throughout. It will be good for at least one more week. (Also climbed the 2 short flows at the top, and kept going to explore. There are a total of 3 chockstones to belly-flop over, which leads to a nice flat sunny spot for lunch - no ice above.) Removed V-thread at the top and the green thread halfway up the climb too (barely holding on) to clean the route. Go climb it before it's gone! Easy approach, no snow. 1h15 total. Little Devil thin and possibly 3+. Pictures of the climb:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=187221&id=506243831&l=fe88a2263f