Climbed Carlsberg with Steve F. on January 3rd. The climb is in excellent, fun condition. First pitch is easier WI5 (thanks to whoever did the hard work of making all the pick-holes in the dry ice). And a bonus this year is the ability to stem between the two columms of ice on the first pitch. The second pitch is regular WI5. Great screws (take 16cm or longer to go through layers of ice), and the climb is completely dry. If you want a harder day, you can definitely pick a harder line.

There is a much safer approach than the scramble that goes immediately above the anemic-looking optional WI3 pitch at the base. When you get to the base of this pitch, keep walking up and to the right for about 100 feet and follow the trail that loops back around to the left to the base of the main climb. This approach has much less exposure and is easier. It also makes an easy descent.

FYI per the MCR (Jan 14TH):

"Avalanche Activity: A climbing party reported a size 1.5 loose isothermal avalanche triggered from a point on the approach to Carlsberg Ice climb in Yoho today"

ps Lots of parties in Field today...very moist and heavy snow everywhere. play safe and happy climbing!

did carlsberg with guv today. bags of fun but the stemming option is out unless youre 9 feet tall good conditions overall with fun tech climbing. excellent donkey trail as described by nancy (see above)

Climbed Carlsberg today(19th). The climb is in super fun shape at the moment. Definitely easy shape though. It is about WI4+ or less. It probably would be 4+ if it wasn`t for the fact that you don`t have to swing at all on the crux first half! Or perhaps it is since the protection didn`t inspire large amounts of confidence. Either way it is in nice, really fun, easy shape, with an easy exit to the first half. The right hand pillar it closer to a 5 and it was fun as well! Get out there and enjoy this climb and bring some longer screws(no need for short screws, the ice is fat just airy)! Cheers.

Climbed Carlsberg yesterday...not much has changed from the earlier post...don't need to swing much on the lower section. I found the lower 5m delicate, moving through the features to get on a solid pillar. I found good protection on full length screws.

On the subject of downgrading this climb to a sub WI4+. Maybe gravity affects me differently...I found the lower section to be vertical and I did have to work to get solid screws...look up Jo-Jo's guidebook at the grades section & make your own mind up.

Was the first of many parties to climb Carlsberg today, Tuesday March 2. Ice was great. Both the left column and right pillar are good climbing.

Did the afternoon shift with Nic Bird today. He lead up the center stemming between the columns. Ice was good. Soft and plastic most of the way. I once again, did not break a BD pick.

If it were possible, climb Carlsberg after a long cold snap when there has not been other parties smashing it to pieces; and then decide if it is 4+ or 5.