Hey Jane, if it is all about protection, why don't you jump on Musashi, or easier yet, say, Caveman, ok forget that! Try Swank! after all, all are very well protected with bolts... I think mere mortals have no biz in dissing climbing styles of those that put up routes we can only look at.Now if Will decided to put up some M4 I would be all over him for "style" :)) Happy climbing all! Tongue firmly in cheek; the doc

HAHAHA YEAH SWANK! And not [just] the magazine either!

Speaking of good pro - The 4th bolt on Swank holds a fall... well, as of two weekends ago it did ;-)
Got to the halfway ledge, breathed a sigh of relief, thought "Oh yeah, she's in the bag now baby." POP goes the other tool while I'm searching for that good hold (I'd climbed the route once on TR a month or so ago) and suddenly I'm airborne... then when everything came to a stop a few seconds later I was really glad those bolts were there and placed nice and close together.
To whoever put up the route... GRRRREAT STYLE!!!!! ;-)
YEAH!!!!
JW

Hi Will,
hey I was thining of going there with a client who climbs up to WI5+ do you think things are still in condition- I know nothing of the area- worth it to go guiding? Cheers Eric

Hi Eric, it's a great area with a lot of potential, but there just isn't much information yet on the water ice in the area. There is some vertical spray ice on the edges of the cave, but that is some of the first ice to see sun and melt out as the sun comes around. Most all of the spray ice is done by my last contact a week ago, but there could definitely be some other waterfall ice lurking in the area...

That whole area of BC has a tremendous amount of potential. It's just really hard to figure out where the good stuff is! Good luck, email me if I can help with anything specific.

Just got the newest issue of Rock & Ice. The online descriptions do not do this cave justice - Tim Emmett's photo, however, puts it all into perspective.

Impressive location and climb. Planning a trip there for next season already...