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Avalanche Conditions
CRITICAL TO CHECK.

Mountain Safety
Good information on traveling safely in the Canadian backcountry.

Ice Encyclopedia
Nice site providing route descriptions and photos for ice climbs in Alberta and BC.

Canmore Guide
Where to stay, eat, etc.

Rockies Climbing Cycle
Ice Season Progression--how to plan a trip to the Rockies.

Gravsports.com
The old Gravsports Ice Page--lots of info on past years, etc.

ACMG
Mountain Conditions Reports, good resource from guides in the area.

CASA
Climbers' access group, worth supporting.

TABVAR
Local org that replaces sketchy old anchors and crappy bolts. Give them money.

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Bull River Canyon
Climbs right of the corner
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Poster Grant P Offline
Posted 01/16/12 01:14 AM
Description
First time visiting the Bull River Canyon so I'm not familiar with route names. There were two parties down there on Saturday. About 4 climbs received multiple ascents. The trail down into the canyon was slippery, we used crampons down. Not much snow on Saturday but the Columbia Valley had 6-7" over the weekend so that could make walking over all the rock debris a little easier.
Last week it was possible to walk over the ice near the narrows but the river was a foot higher this weekend which meant we had to use a fairly new Tyrolean traverse. Tricky getting on and off it and watch your pack doesn't hang too low that it hits the water but it wouldn't have been possible to cross without it this weekend. Good effort from the three guys who installed it.
The ice was generally a little wet but reasonable condition. A couple of the steeper climbs had gaps but were protectable by bolts between or behind the ice. Two of the routes now have new cord on the anchors with one set of bolts having many pieces of ratty cord/webbing cut away.
Probably worth mentioning for anyone unfamiliar with the canyon, that the old wooden pipe was replaced a year or two ago with a new plastic pipe now well buried and not leaking. That means some climbs in the book no longer exist.
Road in was snow covered and decent shape but watch the steep grades don't turn icy.
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