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East fork of Claw Creek
W4 pitch of Chilkoot
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Poster
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Posted
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02/22/10 11:58 PM
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Description
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Sunday 21st Feb, me and Tim decided to head into the east fork of Claw Creek for Fang & Fist. As we went up the drainage we encountered three flows close together on the left that I would guess to be the climbs Runts Runnel and Muzzle Melody along with an unnamed flow. As we walked up the drainage we came to another climb (again on the left) we initially thought was Muzzle Melody except the grade was off - defo not W2. Later looking at the book, it isn't super clear but I think the climb was in fact Lupine Lunge except it is touching down currently. If anyone can positively identify these climbs in the pics, that would be appreciated.
When we got to F&F another party was starting up the 1st pitch so we continued on to Chilkoot Passage. The initial ice was easy W2 and wet on the left. From there to the main pitch was deep snow. Something to be aware of is how it would seem the canyon sloughs snow into the bottom. Not exactly typical avi terrain but worth keeping in mind if going through the canyon after a significant snow fall. The W4 pitch is fun but technical. It starts out up big mushrooms and there are good screws to be found. Then it eases off on the angle as it rises up and right but starts to get minor snowcone effects. Then it heads up a narrow thin runnel so get a good screw before leaving the fat ice below. This runnel eventually passes through a narow notch, beyond which there was an open pool maybe calf-knee deep as far as I could see (didn't test it). I bypassed the pool on snow to the left, then up another steeper short section to the snow/crappy ice to the bolted anchor. We didn't go further as the snow looked deep and we thought we'd see if F&F was open yet. Rapping down, it's worth noting that despite the guidebook saying it's a 30m pitch, the rap line only reached the top of the snow slope at the base and it was a 70m rope taking a direct line down the right side. A 60m rope from the bolted station would leave you short. Might be possible to rap to the left and try getting a v-thread in? dunno? As we walked away from the W4 pitch around 1pm it was starting to come into the sun.
When we got back to F&F, the 1st party was off the steeper stuff so we got on the climb. We did the first pitch in shade but the second pitch had come into the sun by then, around 3pm-ish. The 3rd pitch was getting rather sun affected. Other than that, conditions were much as posted in the Ghost forum (currently two threads on F&F or F&F/Beowolf). We had a 70m rope and a 60m tag and rapped in two. I think two 60m ropes should reach from the top to the double green threads, and again to the ground but check existing threads for melting out.
All together, a great day and some great climbing, in an area of the Ghost I'd previously not been to. If someone could clarify the names on the flows you pass on the way to F&F, that would be cool thanks.
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480x640
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224.77 KB
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UBBCode
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#6274 - 03/01/10 12:06 PM
Re: East fork of Claw Creek
[Re: the pete war]
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WI6
Registered: 11/10/07
Posts: 159
Loc: Calgary, AB
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Look up Malamute valley in the Ghost section of the ice guidebook. Claw Creek and Malamute valley are essentially the same thing. If you don't have the guidebook then look at the Lake Minnewanka map, 82 O 6 I think?? It's the big valley approx 3km SW of Devils Head.
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